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Struck by a meteor? A Setenil Street Image via Oddity Central
The 3,000-odd inhabitants of Setenil de las Bodegas, a city in Spain’s beautiful Andalucia region, seem to be stuck between a rock and a hard place. When they enter their houses, they see rock face; when they stroll through their city, they walk on rocks. Has the city been hit by a meteor and if not what caused its unusual construction?
Setenil’s “hard rock cafe”:
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Image via Oddity Central
Stuck between a rock and a hard place?
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Image: Elli & Beau Capper
Setenil de las Bodegas, about 18 km away from Ronda in the province of Cadiz, has wedged itself between the cliffs eroded by the Rio Trejo river. The old houses especially are built under the cliff overhang and the newer ones against the hillside.
The name Setenil developed from the the Latin septem nihil – “seven times no” – which refers back to the period of the Christian reconquest, when Catholic kings tried to win back territory from the Moors, who had come from Africa and ruled the Iberian peninsula since 711. In Setenil’s case, only the seventh reconquest attempt was successful, in 1485, making the city one of the last bastions of the Moors until they were driven out of western Europe in 1492.
The city of Setenil and the Rio Trejo valley:
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Image: Panarria
Regarding the second part of the name, “de las Bodegas,” at least two different stories circulate. According to one, Sentenil proudly added “de las Bodegas” to its name in the 15th century, because of the many vineyards that had sprung up. Sadly, vine pests ended this tradition in the 1860s.
According to another story, since the early 16th century, “bodegas” referred to Sentenil’s big storerooms under the rock that kept all kinds of produce cool even in the hottest of summers. Regardless of which version is true, fact is that even today, Setenil is famous for delicacies like chorizo, cerdo, olive oil, honey, jam and excellent Andalucian wine.
Other than being built into the rock, Setenil is also one of the typical White Villages of Andalucia; villages that try to stay as cool as possible in this hottest region of Spain by whitewashing their houses every year, as white reflects sunlight best.
Old and new: most houses in Setenil have a rock connection:
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Image: Falconaumanni
When looking at images like this, with a whole village literally living in the shadow of a huge rock, one wonders: Why, isn’t it depressing, especially in the winter?
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Image via Oddity Central
The reason people choose to live here is pragmatism, more or less. The natural caves at Setenil proved perfect living quarters, it is believed since pre-historic times. Instead of having to build a whole house and insulating it against heat in the summer and cold in the winter, many rock caves just needed a façade and voila, there was a house in tune with nature!
One of Setenil’s oldest streets:
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Image: Elli & Beau Capper
Also, one shouldn’t forget that Setenil de las Bodegas is a city that is many centuries old and thus has seen its fair share of fighting. And which enemy would go for the city with rock solid defenses, literally, when the next town over has no such protection? After all, that’s why it took the Catholic kings seven attempts before they won Setenil back from the Moors…
Overall, a very minimally invasive building style. Rock on, Setenil!
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April 28th, 2009 at 8:55 am
!Hola!
Thank you for writing about one of Andalucía’s most impressive small towns, Setenil de la Bodegas, which is a major drawcard for tourists coming to Ronda precisely because of the cave houses along the banks of the river.
In Roman times nearby Acinipo (about 4km from Setenil) was the main Roman city south of Córdoba and even pressed its own coins. The hills around Acinipo were filled with Roman vineyards, and at Setenil the Romans themselves stored wine in the caves because Setenil was on the road to the coast, whereas Acinipo was high on the edge of an escarpment and less easy to access for trade.
On the 21st September 1484 Setenil fell to Ferdinand’s army after a 15 day siege, and the city you mention as falling in 1485 was actually Ronda, which surrendered to Christian forces after a 7 day siege, with Ferdinand entering the city on the 24th May 1485.
Today, there are several important vineyards located around Ronda Viejo (the ruined city of Acinipo) and Setenil de las Bodegas, as well as further south at Arriate and Ronda. Ronda is the main city in the Serranía, and it here that most of the hotels and major tourist attractions can be found. There are many excellent hotels between Setenil and Ronda that make a great base for seeing the wonders of the Serranía de Ronda, of which Setenil is just one gorgaous part.
April 30th, 2009 at 3:07 am
Great article, and thanks for the comment, amazing story!
May 30th, 2009 at 4:34 pm
photoshop assholes :/
June 20th, 2009 at 8:07 pm
Similar to Native American cliff dwellings.
June 23rd, 2009 at 10:37 pm
Idiota es el que piensa que todo es photshop, incultos….
June 24th, 2009 at 1:17 pm
Amazing place! Thank you for sharing with us this awesome material.
June 27th, 2009 at 9:37 pm
It would be fun to live here, if only just so I can tell people I’ve been “living under a rock” & actually be able to prove it!
August 5th, 2009 at 11:35 am
I`d like very much to live there :D all seems so clean …
August 7th, 2009 at 7:08 pm
talk about crawling back under the rock from which you came.
November 1st, 2009 at 1:21 am
Just a small note Rio means river. So saying Rio Trejo River does not make sense
November 24th, 2009 at 12:03 am
nice place and pretty good presentation.
December 31st, 2009 at 2:35 pm
i would be scard to live there can you just imagen those rocks collapsing
January 5th, 2010 at 3:21 am
Wow, the shadows on the first pictures don’t even match up. Way to Photoshop it.
Es re trucho, las sombras no están correctas. Que bueno este Photoshop.
January 29th, 2010 at 6:31 am
This is very clearly (And badly) shoop’d
February 11th, 2010 at 2:29 am
Wait for the big earthquake
February 22nd, 2010 at 11:09 am
you ignorant fools,this is a real place.
March 19th, 2010 at 9:48 pm
Ha,ha, ha, I live very close to this town. My town is called El Bosque. There is no photoshop here, ha, ha, It all real. It would be very easy to probe it, just go to google maps, type setenil, spain a street view there. A cuestion for someone: what is easier to move a big rock or a building?